You should definitely do a walking tour with a Cuban tour guide in order to learn about the intricate restoration and rehabilitation of this magnificent historical enclave. Most of the buildings have fallen to ruins in the later half of the 20th century, when the Russians stopped providing financial support to Castro. With a brilliant architect at the helm, however, many of the homes/buildings have been, or are being, restored.
Eusebio Leal, the City Historian, is the great reviver of Havana, bestowing his Midas touch to a city almost beyond repair. Backed by a Spanish bank, Leal has free reign from Castro to bring back the sexy sultry architecture that had previously defined Havana. Starting with hotels and restaurants, Leal is working to restore Havana’s beauty. Moreover, Leal puts every dollar he earns from his business endeavors back into the city. The quality of the detail and the breadth of what he has accomplished is astonishing. Currently, he is refurbishing stores, theaters, national parks, homes, and more.
Walking through the streets of Old Havana, you can see the contrast between dilapidation and restoration, and it will fill your heart with hope and awe at the realization that one man can save an entire city. In fact, Eusebio Leal is considered the savior of Havana’s elegance. He is Havana’s I.M. Pei, he truly is devoted to his city- the way it was, and with his helping hand, the way it will live.
While walking the streets and Plazas of Old Havana, you must take in the sights. You don’t have to go into all the historical buildings to get a feel for the city. The architecture, beauty, restoration and decay are most notable. Start at Parque Central, and listen to the conversations between young and old men talking about anything from sports to politics while puffing on fresh Cuban Cohibas and Monte Cristos. It doesn’t matter if you do not actually speak or understand the language; their vibrant enthusiasm and continuous body language do all the talking.
Walk down Calle Obispo, and right at the entrance you’ll find one of Ernest Hemingway’s favorite watering holes, El Floridita, pop in for a quick mojito. Stroll down Calle Obispo, and take in the breathtaking architecture. It is awe-inspiring to see the bone structure and ruin that has infested much of Cuba. Calle Obispo, more or less, opens up to the four major squares: Plaza de Armas, Plaza de la Catedral, Plaza Vieja, Plaza de San Francisco. Each square is filled with beautiful structural design and unfettering history. At the same time, the streets and plazas are strewn with lively bars, enlightening museums, and beautiful hotels.
El Malecón – This Oceanfront boardwalk stretches all the way from Castillo de San Salvador de la Punta in Old Havana to the Almendares River, which separates Vedado (middle and upper-class housing) from Mirimar (prominent businesses and resident foreign community). It’s approximately 4 miles long. The Malecón is the social center of Havana, and the streets are filled all day long. Take a stroll down the Malecón in the afternoon when activity is at its peek, you will inevitably notice children swimming and men fishing from the coral structures that line the ocean. At night, you’ll find midnight lovers enmeshed in a torrid smooch fest. We suggest dining at one of the restaurants along the Malecón for a stunning view of the sunset over Banderas Bay. It’s no wonder that the Malecón is the subject for so many Cuban artists; with its faded neo-classical and neo-Moorish architecture, the scene is truly symbolic and picturesque.
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